prefer). Also, since there are only
three jumpers, you can bend them
by hand with a small pair of needlenosed pliers. However, as you
become more involved with stripboard circuits, you may want to
purchase the simple lead-forming tool
mentioned earlier. We are finally
ready to begin constructing the
actual circuit. The following list of
directions may seem a little daunting,
but I think more detail is better than
less, at least at first.
■ FIGURE 8. Stripboard mounted on
breadboard for soldering.
15) From the top of the board, insert
the long ends of all pin headers.
16) Invert the board and insert the
short ends of the pin headers into a
breadboard for support, as shown in
17) Solder the long header pins to
the bottom of the board.
1) Cut a stripboard to the required
size (five traces of 10 holes each)
and smooth the edges.
18) Remove the stripboard from
2) Use a stripboard tool to cut the
traces at the following holes: C4, E1,
E2, E3, and E4.
19) Inspect the stripboard carefully
for accidental solder connections and
3) Use a hobby knife or rotary tool to
cut all five traces between columns A
20) Use flux remover or paint thinner
and an old toothbrush to clean the
4) Similarly, cut the trace between
holes B1 and C1.
21) Allow the stripboard to dry
thoroughly before testing.
5) Use an abrasive plastic pad to
clean all traces on the bottom of
adapter installed on a breadboard as
part of a simple test circuit. One
aspect of Figure 10 requires
explanation, namely the (100K)
resistor, which is tying the 08M’s
Serin pin to ground. In order for any
PICAXE chip to execute a program,
the Serin pin must be tied to
ground. Resistors R1 and R2 in the
programming circuit normally do
the job, but if you remove the
6) Install bare jumper wires on top of
the board between C1 and C5, I1
and I3, and I4 and I5.
■ FIGURE 9. Bottom of stripboard
after cutting traces.
7) Solder and snip the leads.
8) Install diode D1. Observe correct
polarity (i.e., the cathode points away
9) Solder and snip the leads.
10) Insert resistors R1, R2, and R3.
11) Bend the R1 lead from D4 to the
R2 lead at D3.
12) Snip the R1 lead so that it just
touches the R2 lead at D3. Be sure
they are making contact.
13) Solder and snip the leads.
14) Sand or file the bottom of the
board to remove all sharp protrusions.
Figure 9 shows the bottom of my
stripboard after I completed Step 4.
As you can see, I didn’t make a very
straight cut between the holes of
column A and B, especially between
holes A3 and B3. In spite if
this, the board soldered fine
and worked right away, so
you don’t need to worry
about minor inaccuracies,
as long as there is enough
copper left around a hole
to which the solder can
adhere. You can either snip
off the short header pin
sections that protrude from
the top of the board or
leave them on. If you leave
them on, they provide
handy connections for test
clips. If you snip them off
and file the cut ends
smooth, it’s easier to insert
the board into a breadboard
without stabbing yourself —
the choice is yours.
Figure 10 shows the
■ FIGURE 10. Completed
April 2008 91